What To Do in Puerto Vallarta — Beyond the Parties and the Beaches

There’s something about the Mexican resort of Puerto Vallarta and the warm waters of the sand-fringed Bay of Banderas that encourages mating.

I refer — of course — to the mating of humpback whales, those mighty creatures that move south from cooler climes in the north each winter. Head out to sea and they can make for a magnificent spectacle; a glimpse of fluke here, a spray there and, if your luck is in, a breaching — that sublime moment when the whale shoots vertically out of the water and then flips over to return to the depths and the thrill of the chase.

Puerto Vallarta can have a similarly aphrodisiac effect on humans. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton continued their affair when staying there while the latter was filming The Night of the Iguana in 1963. Rather like the humpback whales, they returned many times. Photographs of them from the time show them bronzed, with glasses in hand and passion in their eyes. Their visits put Puerto Vallarta firmly on the map for holidaymakers seeking sun, sea and sand with a dash of glamour.

Although much expanded, with its cobbled streets and elegant, whitewashed buildings now alongside modern hotels, there is still something of the original small-town feel that drew Taylor and Burton. And the setting — the Pacific Ocean framed by the Bay of Banderas on one side and the mountains of the Sierra Madre on the other — remains just as it was: utterly beguiling.

I began my own voyage of discovery in that highly atmospheric old town — also known as the Zona Romántica — by signing up for what sounded like a wonderful way of tuning into the place and getting a real flavour for it: a “Mex-ology” tour.

It was love at first bite. An astonishingly flavoursome fish taco (dorado) was served with a small glass of Ancho Mezcal-tini, a potent brew of a mezcal created from 14 different cactus plants and a hint of anchovy and peppers.

“Don’t knock it back as a single shot,” said Victor Rivadeneyra, our exuberant guide from Vallarta Food Tours. “In Mexico we don’t do shots, we sip slowly. Put a little bit on your tongue and breathe in through the nose. Savour the scent of the agave [leaves]. After swallowing, avoid burning and breathe out through your mouth. Clear the palate with a slice of orange or pineapple. Then you will be ready for the next.”

Who knew it was so complicated? To this Brit — the only one in a group of nine Americans and Canadians — the word shot has always been synonymous with macho displays of speedy consumption, and inevitably vile hangovers the following day.

“We like to enjoy our drinks slowly,” said Rivadeneyra. “They are a great aperitif or digestif. The aim is not to get drunk. Although you do have to be careful with mezcal, it can be addictive.”

I’m not sure we followed Rivadeneyra’s wise words about sipping as, over the course of the next four hours, we popped in on a sequence of packed, highly enjoyable bars to consume a variety of mezcal and tequila cocktails, a honey-infused Pulque (apparently a favourite of the Aztec gods), working up to a 75 per cent proof shot of raicilla. This floral, earthy agave-based brew began life as moonshine but has now acquired a sophisticated sheen and has even popped up on the drinks list of New York’s Gramercy Tavern.

Passing an array of enticing boutiques and jewellery shops and galleries, we also munched our way through blue crab enchiladas, salty, crunchy grasshoppers (“great for protein!”), sugar-coated street stall churros and succulent pieces from a whole lobster.

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Six bars later, my tasting notes from the tour — rather like my memories — are a little hazy, but it was a great way to tune into a place full of positive energy and huge creativity on the culinary front. And to learn more about how, from being the sleepy backwater that drew Hollywood megastars, Puerto Vallarta (otherwise known as Vallarta or simply PV) has become one of the most progressive-thinking places in Mexico, particularly in its celebration of the gay community.

“We are sometimes called the San Francisco of Latin America,” said Rivadeneyra. “And we are proud that rather than feeling that what they are doing is immoral or illegal, gay people here can show love freely.”

Gay, straight, unsure — Vallarta has a relaxed, anything-goes vibe.

Most visitors — predominantly North American — are, like the humpback whales, drawn during the winter months although there’s also a large number of “spring breakers”, coming from March to June before the onset of the rainy season. And as well as the older retired visitors, you can now find a sizeable contingent of digital nomads, so that Vallarta still feels like a town where real people live and work, mingle and munch.

“There’s a bit of culture here, there’s a bit of art, there’s great seafood. And it’s affordable,” says Paul Mayer, who founded Vallarta Food Tours.

In the town itself people stroll along the Malecón fronting the sea and admire the fancy yachts in the marina. Further afield they head for the hills to hike, ride horses and zip-line, or make for the golden beaches along the Riviera Nayarit and the boho-chic surfing centre of Sayulita to the north.

Then, of course, there’s the Pacific Ocean and, from December to March, the humpback whales on a mission, both to mate and then return with their young. I joined a mini-expedition setting out to sea as the sun rose above the Sierra Madre mountains — itself a wonder to behold. The waters were calm, but every so often we’d sense movement and get tantalising glimpses of the whales moving speedily, elegantly, hungrily.

For males the ratio is not good, we were told, with on average eight in pursuit of each female. We listened out keenly for the mating cries and, thrillingly, were treated to a number of sightings. Towards the end of the tour, we struck gold with a full breaching. It was over almost before it started — straight out of the water and then immediately back under. But it was a rare, truly magnificent sight. I imagine that particular whale had had a very good morning.

Three hotels for every budget in Puerto Vallarta

1. Hotel Posada de Roger
Located in the heart of the Zona Romántica, with a courtyard bursting with greenery and colourful flora, this whitewashed inn is full of character. The roof terrace and sunlounger-lined pool catch the sun, but if you’re looking for privacy, opt for a room with a balcony. There are 47 rooms, from simple to suite, all featuring air conditioning, wi-fi and a mini fridge. The hotel has a communal kitchen, but if you want to keep it lazy, Fredy’s Tucan next door will provide you with breakfast in the morning and Mexican specialities come evening.
Details Room-only doubles from £44 (hotelposadaderoger.com)

2. Occidental Nuevo Vallarta
If an all-inclusive holiday with plenty of dining options is what you need, the Occidental Nuevo Vallarta fits the bill. Only 100m from the beach, the hotel also has three pools, including one for children. Food is the main event though: try Mexican dishes at sea-view El Mariachi, or sample sushi at Tokyo. If you’re looking to get active, sports include tennis, aqua aerobics and water polo; otherwise head to the spa.
Details All-inclusive doubles from £170 (barcelo.com)

3. Casa Kimberly
The former homes of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton are now part of a resolutely romantic nine-suite hotel with clawfoot bathtubs, hand-carved king-sized beds and private hot tubs. The Elizabeth Taylor suite ups the ante with a wraparound terrace, private pool and views of Banderas Bay, plus the pink marble heart-shaped bath that Taylor had installed in the 1960s. The couple also built a bridge to link their different houses. Now it leads to the antique-filled, but more low-key, Richard Burton suite as well as the main pool. The spa offers couples’ massages while the on-site tequila bar will definitely sharpen your stay.
Details B&B doubles from £550 (casakimberly.com)
Sasha Nugara

Source: What to do in Puerto Vallarta

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